Review

Traveling is the inspiration of Chef Jean-François Roquette, but he does not cook international cuisine. He is loyal to French cuisine, but brings the experience of traveling into cooking as the icing on the cake. It is a new interpretation of the flavors of various places under the taste of French chefs, such as Xiabu Xiabu. Opening the menu, the cover page is printed with a letter written by the chef to the customers, which explains his cooking concept of inclusiveness and respect for the French cooking tradition. In the last sentence of the letter, he said: "The biggest enemy of taste is boredom." (Le pire ennemi du goût, c’est l’ennui) Based on the cooking techniques of traditional French cuisine, Chef Jean-François Roquette successfully gave a very interesting meal. The six dishes are smooth, with ups and downs, forming a pure symphony (the name of the restaurant means this). There are only two ways to make French cuisine present a modern style: first, maintain traditional cooking techniques, give rich taste to the main ingredients, introduce exotic vegetables or try unprecedented ingredient combinations, so that the seemingly boring main ingredients can be transformed into a new life. This trend has continued from the "new cuisine" in the 1960s to the present day; second, completely subvert French cooking methods, get close to the philosophy of Japanese kaiseki cuisine, and restore the original taste of the main ingredients, such as Alain Ducasse's restaurant of the same name. Pur' continues the first path and goes one step further. Raw scallops and cucumbers are paired, and the dried chili powder inadvertently breaks the freshness that has just been tasted in the mouth, which immediately whets the appetite. Cod is presented with tamarind sauce, enoki mushrooms and perilla, which is very suitable for Asian appetites. There is no need to worry about how to understand it, because you will find it delicious with your Chinese stomach. The six dishes are completed in one go. In addition to the careful design of the kitchen, it also depends on the seamless service of the front hall waiters. The service throughout the night was almost impeccable, perfectly matching the reputation of Park Hyatt. This Park Hyatt in Paris should be the most low-key one in the world. It is easily overshadowed by the jewelry store next to it on Peace Avenue. This restaurant has thus become a neglected "Sleeping Beauty". I really want to keep it to myself and not share it with anyone.