Shanghai|Obscura's new chef, when Michelin meets new Chinese style
At Shanghai's Michelin one-star restaurant Obscura, 28-year-old chef Zhang Jian overturned my perception of new Chinese style with a menu. It is not a show-off creative stacking, but a re-deconstruction of the spicy Yunnan, Guizhou and Sichuan, the fresh Fujian, and the Cantonese soup techniques with Michelin's presentation logic.
🍵 Opening: Camellia Oolong
Start with Camellia Oolong and set the tone of taste with oriental tea fragrance.
🥢 Appetizers and soups
▫ Purple sweet potato lily
The purple sweet potato sauce cooked in duck soup is dense and mellow, the lily soaked in rose water is crisp and sweet like fresh bamboo shoots, and the tart shell made of Guangdong bean curd is as thin as a cicada's wing but crispy to the point of crackling.
▫ Spicy preserved egg and river shrimp with herbs
The upper layer is amber egg white jelly, and the lower layer is fine egg yolk paste, which is concentrated with chicken soup and spicy pepper juice to enhance the freshness; the river shrimp with herbs on the right is recommended to be mixed with preserved eggs, and the salty and fragrant grains jump on the tip of the tongue.
▫ Diving fish
Fujian yellowtail fish is served with palm heart and coriander, and the bottom is laid with a crispy base of pickled lettuce and jellyfish. The chef's homemade Sichuan-style diving pickle juice is poured with lemon juice oil. The sour and spicy impact is as refreshing as diving, instantly activating the taste buds.
▫ Squid duck soup and squid noodles
The old Mushroom duck soup base is boiled for 6 hours, and Chaoshan dried squid is added to enhance the freshness level. The saltiness of the squid naturally enhances the flavor, and finally the morel is used to add the finishing touch. Squid noodles are made purely from fresh squid, without flour added. The chewiness is more marine than Hubei fish noodles, and it is so fresh after absorbing the duck soup.
🍵 Tea pairing: Cold-brewed Longjing tea before the Ming Dynasty
Paired with the first three seafood appetizers, the tea soup is as clear as a stream, just neutralizing the richness of the seafood.
🔥 Hot dishes
▫ Eight-second fresh clams
The chef uses 8 seconds of quick stir-frying to lock in the crispness of the geoduck, while the scallion oil and Yunnan white fungus on the left keep crisp at the same time, and the green beans and peas steamed in the bottom are dense and warm. Dig a spoonful to the bottom and eat it while it is hot. The heat of the pot and the smoothness of the steamed in the steamed bowl form a wonderful contrast.
▫ Sand ginger sea cucumber
Inspired by Guangzhou sand ginger pork knuckle, the sea cucumber is stuffed with black tiger gallbladder fungus and fat eel belly meat, and the more chewy eel back meat is placed underneath. The triple taste is blended in the sauce of sand ginger juice and old chicken soup, paired with crispy sand ginger and scallop shreds, and the umami taste is layered like a surge.
▫ Ham and fish maw
We use African seven-head freshwater perch and yellow peppercorns. They are soaked in water to retain the complete gelatinous texture. After being soaked in oil and diced, they are soaked in oil until bubbles appear on the surface to fully absorb the soup. On the right, Italian risotto is poured with Buddha Jumps Over the Wall sauce (chicken soup, duck soup + dried goods + Shaoxing rice wine), and shredded Jinhua ham is shaved on it. On the left, Han Jinlian is like green wasabi to relieve greasiness. One mouthful of fish maw and one mouthful of "Obscura soaked rice" are so fresh that they make people squint.
▫ Straw smoked pigeon
Using the marinating method of Sichuan camphor tea duck, it is marinated in spice water for three days to remove the fishy smell. It is smoked with pine needles + straw and then grilled on carbon. The fragrance of pine needles penetrates the texture of pigeon meat. Paired with charcoal-cooked wild rice stems, it is in line with the chef's concept of "letting traditional flavors breathe".
🍵 Pairing tea: Yunnan Ancient Tree Dianhong
The peach-scented black tea has a very weak astringency, and the tea soup is as smooth as honey, which just neutralizes the thickness of the sauce. The aftertaste is like the sweetness of spring nectar.
🦞 Main course
▫ Sour and spicy bluefish
The grilled bluefish is as fat as snowflakes, topped with Guizhou white sour soup made from pure fish soup, and the base is made of sauerkraut, ginger and garlic. The bottom is covered with sauerkraut fish, sprinkled with red oil powder, and the smokey flavor of boiled fish is exquisite, paired with the seasonal sweetness of stir-fried amaranth, combining hardness and softness.
▫ Blue lobster with Sichuan pepper
The French blue lobster is wrapped in millet and fried, and the bottom is covered with seasonal Sichuan pepper sauce, and the numbness is as soft as mist; the white asparagus is crispy and tender like bamboo shoots, sprinkled with seasonal shrimp powder to enhance the freshness, the crispy shell is wrapped with chewy shrimp meat, and the numbness of Sichuan pepper lingers on the tip of the tongue.
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