cherrybaibai
15 مايو 2025
When booking for this trip, I tried to stay away from the typical beach-front resort-in-a-bubble that was totally detached from local life. As a foreigner I wanted to stay in an authentic, quaint place close to real Bali life. I got what I wished for. The owner of this establishment had acquired an old wooden mansion in Java, taken it apart and transported everything to Bali, then re-assembled the parts into a boutique hotel. Just look up when you are in the reception area; the intricate original woodwork on the ceiling, like the many Indonesion antiques throughout the hotel, speaks to the passion and care with which this unique property was created. However, I realized soon after setting foot in Bali that it was precisely a beach-front resort-in-a-bubble that I should have booked because, well, authentic life here is just not that pleasant. First there is the pervasive noise from the motor scooters that assaults you, even when you are in your room in this quaint little hotel late at night. And then there is the traffic: The alleyways that make up most of the town of Sanur rarely have sidewalks, so you are almost always jostling with cars and scooters when walking along narrow roads that are unlikely to be pretty. Once you make it to the big main road, there are frequent traffic jams while the noise becomes horrendous. All that wouldn't be a problem if there were good local food or interesting places to explore away from the beaches. Yes there are stalls for local snacks and lots and lots of pizza places, but when we asked about a nice Indonesian restaurant in the neighborhood, the lady at Reception nevertheless recommended a cafe (Batujimbar) near the beaches, realistically a cab ride away in the heat. Likelywise we had to go to the beach promenade to experience the fabled Bali vibe. The Penida island day trip we had booked started and ended on a beach as well. In short, what you want to see, to eat and to experience all seems concentrated in that narrow ***** of highly developed beach front, which also happens to be the only place where you can escape the scooter noise. We had always assumed that, being an island, Bali would have great seafood, but when we asked people to recommend a seafood restaurant, we mostly drew puzzled looks. The night before our departure we discovered the Kedonganan fish market on Tripadvisor and decided to give it a try, only to find it closed after a 45-min car ride further inland in bad traffic. To salvage our last evening we ended back at the beachfront, in a very nice hotel. Eating fine Indonesian food in a quiet, elegant Bali-style hut looking out to the ocean, my wife spoke what was on my mind: "We should have stayed here."
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