Arai Ryokan in Shuzenji Makes Hot Spring Bathing and Firefly Watching a Relaxing Delight

Naka-Izu has always been a dream destination for Bunny Mom. It's not just about Kawabata Yasunari or the Dancing Girl. The area also boasts hot springs and stunning nature that attract countless visitors. Along the central route of the Izu Peninsula from north to south, Bunny Mom chose Shuzenji for its thousand-year-old hot springs, bamboo forests, and fireflies—how delightful! Shuzenji isn't actually the name of a temple but a historic hot spring town in Izu with 1,200 years of history. Shuzenji Onsen is the oldest hot spring in the Izu Peninsula. Legend has it that in 807 AD, the monk Kukai (also known as Kobo Daishi) struck a rock with his ritual tool to summon healing waters for a filial son's ailing mother, creating Izu's most ancient spring—Tokko-no-Yu. Today, this spring is only a sightseeing spot where bathing or even foot-soaking is prohibited. Yet, during an evening stroll around 6 PM, Bunny Mom spotted some tourists soaking their feet anyway. She wanted to stop them but was held back—frustrating indeed! 😓 In this quaint town stands Arai Ryokan, a historic hot spring inn established in 1872 (Meiji 5), with over 150 years of history. It was once a gathering place for literary giants like Kawabata Yasunari, Ozaki Koyo, Izumi Kyoka, and Akutagawa Ryunosuke, as well as artists such as Yokoyama Taikan and Masaoka Shiki. Many found inspiration here, creating timeless works. Among them, painter Yasuda Yukihiko had the deepest ties to Arai Ryokan, leaving behind over 70 paintings. Due to its cultural significance, the inn is designated as a Japanese Cultural Heritage site. Bunny Mom opted for Arai Ryokan's "one-night, two-meal" plan. Traditional inns often have intricate room types and packages; she chose a "Flower Series" room facing both the Katsura River with its bamboo forest and the central pond—offering breathtaking views. The room included a private bathroom. Among the inn's five unique hot springs, her favorite was the signature "Tenpei Bath." The ryokan also features a historical exhibition hall, a study room, and a gallery that collaborates with artists for rotating exhibitions. Meals were served in the room at scheduled times, with staff arriving to set up. The most amusing part? If breakfast was at 8:30 AM, the futon would be tidied up by 8:00 AM. The dinner was exceptionally delicious—another feast to the brim! Bunny Mom chose Shuzenji to enjoy the tranquil Katsura River walks after day-trippers left, to climb high for sunset views over the ancient springs and town, and to venture through bamboo forests after dinner to spot fireflies at Akagaeru Park. The town's so-called "attractions" didn't particularly appeal to her. At Shuzenji Temple, founded by Kobo Daishi in the early 9th century, there's a secluded courtyard said to be where he meditated in his youth. Another spot, Eda Shrine, features two intertwined "husband-and-wife" trees often visited by locals for prayers.